FINALLY I am here with our DIY shiplap tutorial. You guys.. this is seriously so easy & makes a huge impact on any room. We have always been a shiplap fan & even did a shiplap wall in our NC home 4 years ago. Since then we have learned a lot & have tried a lot of different ways to do shiplap & the shiplap we have done in our office now is by far the cheapest & easiest way to install shiplap on your walls. In the rest of our house we used more expensive tongue and groove boards and we had my brother [an expert trim worker] do the shiplap for us. For this room we used… plywood. That’s right, plywood. We did this entire room for less than $100 total & I call that a win. To be exact I think we spent somewhere around $80 for the whole space & we already had the paint on hand so that was a bonus. The office is far from done & we have some exciting things happening in this space very soon, but I couldn’t hold off sharing this tutorial with you guys because a lot of you were waiting for it. So here is the rundown of how we shiplapped the office…
Seriously not looking bad right? We are so close to finishing up this office, but some HUGE changes are coming soon. Like lots of furniture changes that I can’t wait to show you. BUT today it’s all about the shiplap. So let’s talk about how easy this really is…
Here is what Jose had to say about the shiplap:
“The shiplap is ¼ inch sanded 4’ x 8’ plywood, cut to 6 inch pieces. To save a lot of time, I had Home Depot cut the strips of plywood, since they have a much larger set-up to cut the 8ft pieces. For the installation grab a few nickels, about 15 cents worth, and use them for the spacing between the top and bottom of each board. Starting at the very bottom, rest the piece of plywood on the baseboard and staple it in. I used 18 gauge staples and pneumatic nail gun. Start on one side of the board and work your way down to the other, to mitigate any bubbling in the middle area, and also it allows you to run your nickel along with you in between the boards as you staple. Going all the way around the room, one level at a time. Moving the next board up from the baseboard, use your nickel to keep an even spacing and make sure that it is parallel to the ground, you can ensure this by slightly pushing down pinching the nickel between the boards and staple it in place. Move along the board doing the same thing until you reach the end of the wall. Once you make it all the way up the wall I finished it off with a pre-painted 1 x 2 board to trim the top. To hide all the holes and indents from pressing the nail gun on the wood, I used spackle; and caulked the edges and corners.”
A little before:
& how it looks today…
We painted the room in Benjamin Moore Dove white which is the color of the rest of our house & we love it. It’s literally the perfect white. We have a few touch ups to make, but no one is looking right? So, that is how we did our super easy & cheap shiplap in the office that cost less than $100 for a 10×15 room. Not bad! I can’t wait to get this office finished up and styled for the final makeover reveal… stay tuned for that! What do you think of our shiplap? Let me know in the comments below, find me on Facebook, & chat with me on Instagram! Thank you so much for stopping by the blog!! xx
A little office to-do list yet:
-Paint the DIY card catalog [tutorial coming soon]
-Add some additional furniture
-Get a rug
-Hang some art
-Style the room
– Do the final reveal & actually use the room full time!!
“The shiplap is ¼ inch sanded 4’ x 8’ plywood, cut to 6 inch pieces. To save a lot of time, I had Home Depot cut the strips of plywood, since they have a much larger set-up to cut the 8ft pieces” – looking at your photo, I’m having a hard time with the original cutting directions. Am I missing something? It looks fabulous!!
This is literally stunning. I wish I could shiplap our home, but we’re in a rental right now. It’s probably my favourite look ever. For now we will just keep building rustic furniture & hopefully we can buy someday.
Here’s my blog for my home tour and such. I want a more airy & bright look, but renting… ugh.
This looks great! How did you do the molding above the closets?
Looks great Liz! Did you apply anything over the notches?
Laurie C says
I’ve been reading all these wonderful blogs about cheap and easy shiplap. They all say to have Home Depot or Lowe’s cut plywood into strips. Unfortunately, here in Michigan, new safety regulations have gone into effect that prohibit these stores from cutting anything less than 12 inches wide from sheets of plywood. I am so bummed! So, my backup plan will be to use 1 x 6 x 8 tongue and groove boards. Not exactly the look I want, but I think they’ll look good when I’m all done.
Sharon D says
This looks AMAZING!!!Did you do the casing around the window and closets too? Any diys on those??? I would LOVE to do our master bedroom like this!!!
Kate Neckers says
With the shiplap do you have to be worried about the boards warping and not laying flat with some time?
Did you put Sheetrock on the wall before you you put the shiplap on
Did you have to do any sanding??
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Ike Bulgrin says
Ugh!! Am I the only one who can’t get Home Depot or Lowe’s to rip the plywood for me? I finally convinced my husband this was a good idea last week and was all set to get the project rolling(measurements and shopping list in hand). I get to Lowe’s and was told they can’t rip anything less than 12″. I explained to them that I’ve seen people saying they can all over the internet and they reiterated they cannot. Went across the street to try the other place and once again was told NO. So much frustration.
btw- I am in Rockford, IL.
Noma Hagger says
Thanks for th good info!
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Wow I do needed this. Thanks for the tutorial.
Did you do the trim yourself or did you have it made? Have a post about that? And I assume the trim was on the wall before starting shiplap?
Katie B says
Hello! I was wondering if the ship lap color and trim color have to be the same? For our space we have existing trim and was wondering if I needed to do a matte finish of the same color for the ship lap that is the semigloss trim.. Does that make sense? I don’t want the ship lap to be too bright white though but would it be bad to have a different color white ship lap vs trim. This is the dilemma.
I was also wondering how to prevent scuff marks on the ship lap.. Should we use some kind of a sealer?
I am so inspired by your blog! We bought a spec house in a new neighborhood and it is so fun warming it up and making it out own!
Thanks for all of your tips and advice!
Kim, the sheets of plywood are 4 ft x 8 ft, she asked the home depot staff to cut as many 6 inch x 4ft or 8ft depending on whether she wanted longer boards or shorter boards. With such a large room, she probably went with 6 inch x 8 feet boards.
Hope this helps clear the confusion
You did such a beautiful tutorial for us to follow. Do you purchase birch plywood and a cheaper grade. Love your finished room. We are planning on taking on this project because of the ease of it. Now that you showed us how. Thank you.
Anna Homer says
You mentioned that in other areas you did the more expensive tongue and groove, I wondered how this method compares to that way. We are wanting to do a shiplap accent wall in our bedroom and want to consider both ways. Thoughts?
Try Home Depot. Lowes and HD both rip boards, I know the first 2 cuts are free, they may charge 50cents or some fee to rip each additional. Sometimes younger guys will do it without charging ( ask them to go up to the register to ‘waive’ the fee.) Sometimes cashiers will just waive period.
Ask for a manager if they decline. There is no set rule that they cannot rip a board. A lot of DIY people have cars and can only fit a certain length inside to go through the trunk to the arm rest. 🙂
I wouldn’t trust them to rip the boards, they do not care if there straight or not, you can pick up a can circular saw and mark the boards, or rent a table saw if need be.
Did you stagger boards so the lines don’t match up? My wall are 13 & 15 feet. Thank you ~ Karen
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